Monday, October 4, 2010

2010 Elk Rut at Peak, New Viewing Locations

The "Boxley Beast" Herd Bull
The elk rut has been going strong now for about two weeks, and is at peak now. Visitors can expect a good show for at least another month. As we enter November the elk rut will be technically off peak, but elk viewing will still be very good. My best bull fight was shot the first week of November, so there is quite a way to go before things tail off significantly.

Yesterday cattle were moved into the first field just south of the observation pullout. This displaced two elk herds that had been there for about two weeks. From what I could judge, it appears that one herd went north and another appeared to be heading south. One thing we can be sure of is that cattle and elk don't mix. The elk will go somewhere else. Time for a new pattern. These movements are pretty standard.

I expect to see a herd take up residence in the first couple of fields near the Ponca Access. These are traditionally strong fields and have elk only when cattle are not present. Herds that visit these fields also occasionally visit Steel Creek during the week when there are few campers.

Remember to be safe. I have many new elk photos posted on my photo website, http://arkansaswildlifephotography.com linked off the galleries section. I just started a third elk gallery on the 2010 rut. It has been a pretty good year for shooting.

Monday, September 20, 2010

2010 Arkansas Elk Rut Underway

It is time to declare the 2010 elk rut officially underway. In the last few days to a week, for the first time the huge bull elk of Boxley Valley in NW Arkansas have migrated to herds of cow elk to begin the annual mating ritual. Only a few of the cow elk are now estrous, but that is enough to kick off the annual show.

Currently there are two herds of cow elk with herd bulls in Boxley Valley. For a few days now they have been centered from the mid valley area all the way down to the south end of the valley just north of the trail head to the Upper Buffalo Wilderness. Elk will move around, often migrating at night.

Visitors to the valley should check all of Boxley Valley from the Ponca Access to the south trail head before choosing where to watch and photograph the elk. Newbies often park at the very first elk they see (or have ever seen) and miss much better viewing just a short distance away. Failing to check the valley before setting on your viewing location could be the difference between seeing a bull fight or missing that rare opportunity.

If you hear elk bugling, often that means there are potential challenger elk nearby. The call and answer of a herd bull and potential challenger is the first step that might lead to a bull fight. I call this "counter-bugling", and I rely on counter-bugling to alert me to potential bull fights. Bulls preparing to fight bugle at one another frequently and loudly. The tone of voice changes from melodic to raspy as they express building rage prior to the fight. Paying attention to this change in tone will lead you to potential bull fights that might be in the next field.

Remember to be safe. Bull elk pumped up with hormones during the rut are predisposed to fighting. Invade their space and you risk becoming an antler ornament. The animals are also on private land, so fence jumping is plainly the wrong thing to do.

This annual show is only beginning and will continue to November. Peak action is over the next month or so, but bugling will continue for some time.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Tips for Enjoying the 2010 Arkansas Elk Rut

Bull Elk Are Preparing for
the 2010 Arkansas Elk Rut
The elk rut begins now in just two weeks. These tips will add to your enjoyment as you visit the Ponca elk herd in historic Boxley Valley. These tips should add to your elk viewing experience. 

  • The best elk viewing is early and late in the day. Plan to visit early mornings and in the late evenings.
  • For a few years the best elk viewing has been in the fields near the intersection of Highways 43 and 21, just south of Ponca. Begin looking for elk in these fields, but don't rule out the entire valley.
  • Drive slowly in Boxley Valley. My recommendation is 40 mph maximum. Remember bull elk are in love during the rut, they are a bit more recless and if you speed you could hit one.
  • Be very conscious of safety issues. Tourists gawking at elk are often not very alert. Drive slowly, and watch for pedestrians.
  • When you stop to view elk, pull as far as possible off the road. In many places in Boxley Valley, there are wide shoulders that will allow you to pull completely off the road.
  • Respect private property. All the farm fields in Boxley Valley are private. Do no jump fences or block farm field entrances.
  • Remember that elk are wild animals. Both cow and bull elk can and will protect themselves and their young if they perceive you are entering their space.
During the peak elk viewing season, the National Park Service and the Newton County Sheriff Department enforce speed limits and trespassing laws. Tickets will be given for egregious parking violations in driveways and private lands. Let common sense be your guide. If anything seems wrong it probably is, and you could get a costly ticket. 

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

2010 Arkansas Elk Rut

Buffalo National River fans know that the Arkansas elk herd is the most viewable herd in the South. This amazing attraction allows visitors to view elk from the roadsides in Boxley Valley. It has increased in popularity every year as word has spread to across Arkansas and adjoining states.
Elk Viewers in Historic Boxley Valley. Note the people sitting.
they cannot be seen by oncoming traffic. Always stand and
get well off the road. Drivers looking for elk will not see you.  

The good news is that the rut is now less than 30 days off. Big bull elk have pulled in close to the cow elk herds. They can be seen in Boxley Valley scraping velvet off their antlers in preparation for fighting just weeks away.

The peak of the 2010 rut is roughly from the last week in September through the first week in October. Like whitetail deer, cow elk return to estrous until they are successfully bred. These cycles extend the rut until late in the year. Bull fights, while less common, can occur even in November.

It is time to plan your visit to Boxley Valley for the 2010 Arkansas elk rut. In about a month, visitors will be treated to the best elk viewing of the year. The bulls will begin bugling in about three weeks. During the peak rut, evening bugling is quite common.

Plan on visiting often during this amazing time. If you are fortunate, you will see a bull fight. Mornings and evening
s are the best times for viewing and listening. Remember to pull over on the wide shoulders, out of traffic.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Elk Viewing Threatened by State Elk Plan -- A Call to Action



Persons who love elk watching in Boxley Valley have reason for concern.  The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission is rushing through an elk management plan for Boxley Valley that threatens a tourist attraction that brings thousands of visitors from all 50 states and many foreign countries. These elk tourists spend millions of badly needed dollars in the regional tourist-based economy, helping Arkansas hold the line during difficult economic times. 

Anything that would harm or reduce elk tourism in the weakest economy in anyone's memory will spell the loss of jobs, small businesses, and revenues. Elk watching has continued to expand steadily, straight into a recessionary headwind. It must be protected and expanded. Elk watching is a major draw, one that seems recession-proof. 

Above: Over 7,000 different people visit the Arkansas Wildlife Photography from all over Arkansas. The elk-centered site draws around 15,000 viewers from all 50 states, and 33 foreign countries who are deeply interested in the Arkansas elk viewing in Boxley Valley. 

Local Concerns About the Elk
The AGFC has relied on testimony of a handful of farmers to frame a planned reduction of the elk herd in Boxley Valley. As one who spends hundreds of days a year in Boxley Valley, I can attest that claims of crop damage, fence breakage, and other elk-related problems are largely overstated. They are actually reduced compared to the past. 

Two years ago a 300+ acre food plot was planted in the fields surrounding Highways 43 and 21. This food plot was planted for the elk, the same elk that are now fingered as a nuisance by local farmers. It was also planted with governmental subsidy. 

The food plot has not increased elk numbers in Boxley Valley, it has shifted the elk from elsewhere in the valley to the food plot. Truth be told, the food plot has actually reduced past elk problems for farmers who graze cattle. Four years ago the elk were scattered across the Boxley Valley, in the last two years, the animals have shifted south to the feed plots, and in the fields further south, most of which are not in production



The problems of the past are largely gone. Concerned farmers have little to complain about except memories from before the food plot was planted two years ago. They do not like the fact that Boxley Valley is a National Historic District and part of the Buffalo National River park. These frustrations get placed on the small Boxley Valley elk herd. 

Farmers are frustrated by the occasional tourists that jump fences to get closer to the elk. That is an enforcement issue, not an elk issue. There is a need for beefed up enforcement during peak elk viewing periods, roughly from mid-September to mid-October. This is the peak of the annual elk mating season, the rut. 

Peak tourism occurs each fall. For about 4 weeks visitors fill area cabins for the elk rut. From mid September to mid October, one month, tourists can witness the spectacle of the huge bull elk bugling and running cows in the fields by highway 43 and 21, the food plot area. Sometimes the herds migrate to other areas of the valley, but they always return to the food plot after a short time. During this period, the NPS and local sheriff should patrol Boxley Valley and keep things orderly, especially in the evenings. 

At other times of the year, elk viewing traffic in Boxley Valley is steady, but not problematic. 95+% of the time, the only elk to be seen are in the food plot fields and mostly at the ends of the day. 

AGFC is talking of a hunt to reduce the elk herd in Boxley Valley. This would be a horrible mistake for a couple of reasons. First, there are not too many elk, the claims of damages and problems are largely pre-food plot, and are greatly exaggerated. If anything, Boxley Valley elk numbers are down. Yes, they are down, not up. Sometimes there are a number of elk in the valley, but these are migrating groups and they soon leave. Often one cannot find a single elk the whole length of the valley. I would say on average, there are 30-50 elk in the Boxley Valley, and they are in the 300 acre food plot. This is hardly overpopulation.

I have never witnessed a single elk damage a fence. I have seen dozens of cattle do so. An elk can walk up to a 4 foot fence, pause, and jump over it without touching it. There is a reason elk-proof fences are built at 6 feet and up, elk don't think twice about 4 feet. They don't break them either. Cattle break fences all the time. 

Another complaint is traffic hazards. One elk per year on average is killed or hit by cars in Boxley Valley. I would rate the hazard of hitting an elk roughly equal to hitting a whitetail deer. I have never had a close call with an elk in hundreds of visits to the valley. Elk do cross the road, but very infrequently, and that is no hardship on anyone. Elk don't bolt in front of cars quite like deer. I think this complaint is a non-starter. 

Similarly, some have complained that tourists speed through Boxley Valley. People who speed in Boxley Valley are locals. Tourists go slow and take in the sights. I do see area residents travel Boxley Valley at over 60 miles an hour. Speeders are a hazard to everyone, tourists and residents of Boxley Valley alike. This is an enforcement issue. Tourists go slowly, and often stop and gawk.  There is a need for more pullout areas. 

What Course Should Be Taken? 
What should be done if there are too many elk in Boxley Valley? (They are not overpopulated, but let's look at it for sake of argument.) There are two choices, kill them, or relocate them. 

Option one, killing the elk takes a very limited resource, the elk, and provides a sporting experience for one person. Any hunt would be very small, so the number of hunters and any economic benefit they might provide would be say 25 elk killed, by 25 hunters, in one or two days. For sake of this example lets say they stay two nights in a local cabin = 50 cabin rentals. 
This is a one time, every few year benefit because the herd is very small. Lets say we need a new controlled hunt every 4th year. Take the 50 divide it by 4, and the hunt yields 12 cabin rental nights a year. 

Option two, move the elk and create another Boxley Valley-like elk viewing and wildlife watching experience. These same 25 elk, viewed by tourists actually multiply through natural reproduction. The resource is not exhausted, it actually bears interest. Again for sake of argument, let's say 12 net calf births a year. After 4 years, the population is roughly 60 elk, about the same population generally viewed in Boxley Valley. If promoted, these same elk draw thousands of tourists a year. Even if they stay only two nights each, that is a 4 year benefit of 1,000 elk viewing tourists is 1,000 times 2 nights, times 4 years -- 8,000 room rentals, or 2,000 room rentals a year. 

This is the bottom line. If you take 2,000 room rentals (viewing) divided by 12 room rentals (hunting), you can see that the economic benefit of elk watching is 166 times greater.  In dollar terms, at $100 a night cabin rental, it is $200,000 for viewing, vs. $1.200 for hunting a year. 
(This is a very conservative number, there will be many more than 1,000 elk tourists in another viewing venue. )

In these economic times, it is in everyone's interest to harness the enormous economic multiplier of elk watching vs. elk hunting.. In this economic context, we must err on the side of revenues, on the side of creating new attractions, and protecting jobs, businesses and tax revenues. It is in everyone's interest. 

Excess elk should not be killed, they should be relocated to create more elk viewing tourism. If we create a couple of more Boxley Valleys, Arkansas can become a national elk viewing destination. We have 18% of the population of the US within two tanks of gas. Imagine the impact of making the Gene Rush WMA a second elk viewing destination on par with Boxley Valley. That would double the viewing opportunities, and could provide the basis for an expanded promotion of the wildlife viewing resource. You can only kill an elk once, but you can view them year after year, and sell rooms, meals and local goods to visitors year after year. 

But what about the handful of Boxley Valley farmers?  If they have problems, let's compensate them for those problems. In view of the conservative 166x multiplier of viewing vs. hunting, we can afford it. It is clear we cannot afford to drive the elk off and curtail elk tourism. Elk viewing tourism is the way to create serious tourism-based revenues

We can also afford the improvements to Boxley Valley to make it tourist-friendly. Improvements to Boxley Valley will pay for themselves overnight. Truthfully, they already have as elk viewing underpins local tourism. Elk viewing is often the one factor that tips the balance in decisions to vacation in Arkansas vs. another state. 

Business people use the concept of "strategic competence" as a fancy way of saying you should do more of what you are good at to make money. It turns out we are very good at attracting tourist to view our elk. The Ponca Elk Education Center is by far the most attended of any education center in Arkansas, it has grown every year. The elk website arkansaswildlifephotography.com attracts 15,000 visitors from 50 states, and 33 countries. It has grown 100% each year. 

The bottom line is we are very good at promoting elk watching. We need to expand on what we are good at. We know that elk tourism it is already a major source of revenue for Arkansas tourism.  With a little work and imagination, we can become the elk viewing destination for the South. In this economy, we have to do everything we can to build on our successes and attract more tourism. Our economic future hinges on making the right decision. 

How to Stop the Proposed Boxley Valley Elk Hunt
Write Cory Gray at mcgray@agfc.state.ar.us to express your opposition to a Boxley Valley elk hunt. This must be done as soon as possible. His phone number is 877-367-3559. If you would, please cc: comptonphotographer@gmail.com so we can track emails to AGFC on this issue. We must act now, the future of elk tourism is in the balance. Comment closes in a few days. 


Thursday, August 5, 2010

2010 Arkansas Elk Rut Viewing Planner

In just under six weeks, the prime fall elk viewing season will be in gear in Boxley Valley, in NW Arkansas. From the middle of September until around the first of November, the annual elk rut will take place.

The absolute best place to view the rut is along Highway 43. Prime times are mornings and evenings, but as the weather moderates, all day viewing is possible.

Fortunate visitors may witness a bull elk fight as pictured on the left. Dominant herd bulls weighing nearly 1,000 pounds vie for mating rights. This is the best time to see these majestic animals and listen to them bugle. Wildlife lovers come from a multi-state region to enjoy the spectacle creating income for cabin owners and local small businesses.

A growing number of photographers have learned that Boxley Valley is one of the very best places to get "lifetime" photos of elk. The unique geological characteristics of Boxley Valley traps the herds between two bluff lines. They pasture in the fields fairly close to the road. To get the very best photos, a long lens is required. I recommend 400MM if you can afford it, or at least 200MM with a multiplier. High megapixel cameras enable photographers to crop for "digital zoom" and achieve decent results. Tripod or monopod use will enhance results for most, but personally I opt for a high ISO and leave the clutter behind.

The Arkansas Game and Fish is now creating its elk management plan. One of the concerns to be addressed by the plan is the Boxley Valley elk herd that some local people assert has become too large. I spend more time observing the Boxley Valley elk herd than anyone. If anything, there are fewer animals than in years past, plus they now concentrate in feed plots around the intersections of highways 43 and 21, and therefore affect farmers elsewhere in Boxley Valley less than in the past.

I believe the bottom line is that local people want to hunt the Boxley Valley, not to control elk, but just to kill elk as a game animal. The arguments they make have little basis in fact and must be examined in the larger context of what is good for tourism. Newton County cannot afford to have elk viewing harmed by a hunt in Boxley Valley.

Decisions are weighed on competing frames of reference. There are competing frames of reference here. One is the concerns of a handful of farmers who would like to see the elk herd driven from Boxley Valley. The larger frame is what driving the elk from Boxley Valley would mean to hundreds of Newton County residents who derive their incomes from tourism.

If you look at the numbers, there are a handful that want the elk gone, and hundreds of residents who depend on tourism for their livelihoods. In 2009 Newton County had a 9% increase in revenues, while its neighbor, Boone County had a revenue decline of 10%. The difference is tourism, and a huge part of Newton County's tourism is the elk herd, specifically the viewing of the elk herd in Boxley Valley.

In this economy, Arkansas cannot afford to reduce tourism. Not at all. While I feel sorry for the rare problems a handful of farmers may have with elk, I am much more concerned about throwing away a dependable state-class tourist attraction that results in revenue for the county government, and jobs for hundreds of local residents.

Newton County is one of the poorest counties in Arkanasas, it cannot afford to lose tourism dollars. Tourism dollars are the life blood of Newton County and it appears that these revenues are shielding the county from the deep recession impacting everywhere else, like Boone County. Elk viewing is one of the cornerstones Newton County tourism, it should be expanded by relocating elk to more areas if anything.

Under no circumstances should elk viewing be curtailed in Boxley Valley, it should be expanded. Elk viewing often tips the balance for tourists who consider alternative destinations for a vacation. We cannot afford to lose our standing as the Elk Capital of Arkansas, our jobs and economic future depend on protecting elk viewing tourism.


Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Prime Elk Viewing Season Fast Approaching

Late August is the beginning of prime elk viewing season, and it extends nearly until the end of the year. It has distinct stages. Preparations are now underway for the elk rut just 6 weeks off.

Bull elk are now nearing the end of the regrowth of antlers for the 2010 season. This new growth continues until about mid-August when they begin to "scrape" the velvet off their antlers in preparation for the rut. Viewers will see ribbons of half-scraped velvet hanging from their antlers until the process is complete. Newly scraped antlers are bone white and quickly season to a deep brown by the end of August for most animals.

The annual elk rut is one of the biggest tourism shows in Arkansas. It begins roughly the second week of September, peaking roughly for the two week period from the last week in September to the first week in October, when the bull elk battle to establish breeding rights. Aside from the traditional two week peak period, the rut may extend until the end of the year. Cow elk that are not successfully bred return to estrous. Typically there is a second estrous, and some animals will enter a third estrous.

Visitors to the elk rut will hear bull elk bugling, and if they are fortunate, will witness an actual bull fight. Viewing is most popular late afternoons and evenings in Boxley Valley. Elk herds range up and down the valley from Ponca to the trailhead to the Upper Wilderness, but the greatest concentration of elk in recent years has been in the fields near the highway 43 and 21 intersection.

The definitive resource for elk viewing information is at http://arkansaswildlifephotography.com. This site offers up-to-date information on elk viewing, as well as many galleries of elk photography from past years.

It is time now to book a room if you plan to stay in the Ponca area. The best single source for lodging information is upperbuffaloriver.com. Staying in Ponca or Jasper puts you just minutes from the elk herd in Boxley Valley. Area cabins are now booking up fast for the fall season.