2011 Buffalo National River Region Wildflower Season

This has been a weird last month. Very heavy snow storms topped off by the last one -- a real monster for around here. We have at least 15" of snow on the ground, and it may be more. Our county has been declared a disaster area. It will probably be at least 3-4 days before we can go anywhere.

Rest in Peace Old Friend

I am sorry to report that my signature black and dirt jeep with the generic white labels is dead. On Saturday the 5th I lost control of the old girl, did a "360", stuck it in a 4ft ditch, and slammed it into a stone bank. Pretty much trashed it. Estimated repairs are $7000, so it is off to the bone yard.

Miraculously I came out of that crash with only one bruise. Perhaps it is because I rotated the jeep clockwise as recommended by the sign -- I did stay well below the recommended 50 MPH though. By the time I popped up and out of the jeep, there were two trucks volunteering to help. As amazing as this place is, the people are still better. They got the jeep upright, positioned it off the road, and then gave me a ride home. My thanks to the Davidsons of Elk Horn Road for their help.

As hard as it seems to believe wildflower season is now less than a month off. I spent some time looking at the shooting dates of last year's photos. Wildflower season begins in the first week of March if it follows last year's patterns. If you don't live near wildflowers you can rely on the blooming date of daffodils to signal the onset of the 2011 wildflower season in the Buffalo National River region.

I am looking out the window at hundreds of birds at my feeders due to the snow cover. You know the snow cover is heavy when you see red-winged blackbirds in droves at your feeder. I don't think there are more than 15 or 20 pairs of these birds nearby around ponds and runoffs. I have them all now at the feeder, plus other from more distant places.

Harbinger of Spring, Lost Valley

The first wildflower you photograph will likely be Harbinger of Spring (go figure). These tiny flowers are a bit difficult to find, the flower head is about the size of a dime and it blends real well with the cover on the forest floor. You will have to look close to see them. As I did last year, I will post flowers and shooting dates.


A few things to remember:

• First, the wildflower season is long. To see the most species you need to get out about every week. Some species will bloom only about a week or so, take a week off and you might miss them for the season.
  
• Second, the season will be different in different places. For example, Smith Creek Preserve will lag about a week behind Lost Valley. There are even timing differences within one area. Wildflowers teach you a lot about micro-climates and niches.
  
• Third, some species are common in one place and rare in another. A good example is Dutchman's Breeches. They are rare in Lost Valley, but pretty common at Smith Creek Preserve.
  
• Fourth, there are many places to find wildflowers up and down the river. Just about every hiking trail has spots where the flowers are pretty thick. There are differences between mountain top environments, and along the river and feeder creeks. Pay attention to roadsides as well. You will find wildflower hot spots everywhere.
  
• Fifth, you can get great flower pictures with pretty ordinary equipment. Don't place limits on yourself because you lack this lens or that camera. Great photos are about composition, about light. Look for dramatic light, think in terms of shapes and lines. Look beyond the obvious, think carefully and pick your shots and angles. These habits will move your photos to another level. 

Be safe. If you hike a relatively remote place like Smith Creek Preserve, ideally do it with a friend. Always let someone know where you went. If you have the bucks consider getting a rescue beacon. We can all be seduced into believing there is no danger in these beautiful wild places. That can be a fatal mistake.

Plan Your Buffalo National River Visit for Spring 2011

Harbinger of Spring

It is hard to believe that the spring wildflower season is only about two months off now. A pretty reliable sign of the wildflower season is the first blossoming of daffodils. In about this same time frame, visits to local wildflower hotspots like the Lost Valley hiking trail, and Smith Creek preserve, will reveal the first wildflower species of the year.

In early spring, the famous Arkansas elk herd is still visible, and and until about April 1, big bull elk can still be observed in Boxley Valley fields.

Early spring is also generally the beginning of the waterfall season. This is highly dependent on rainfall, and currently the water table is very low after many months of very low precipitation. With only a couple of heavy rains, the situation will change rapidly. Visit http://arkansaswildlifephotography.com for continuous updates on all spring attractions.

Canoe Launch at Ponca Access

Spring floating can also begin about the same time. Kayakers track rainfall closely and they'll show up all spring to float the Buffalo especially the upper reaches of the Buffalo known as the Hailstone. Floating for regular people can begin in the spring, but most outfitters will closely watch water temperature and floating conditions to make sure it's safe.

In early spring, visitors can plan a stay that will include floating, photography, elk watching, and hiking. Conditions can vary a bit depending on weather, but spring is an outstanding time to visit, if the weather cooperates, it can be amazing.

Spring Offers Good Elk Viewing 

If you plan to visit, now is the time to begin making cabin reservations. Spring is a busy time Buffalo national River region and cabins book up fast. take time now the plan your stay. Good planning will save you time and money when you visit.

Visit http://upperbuffaloriver.com for more information.

2010 Fall Color Coming on Strong Now -- Peak in One Week

In the last week, the transition to fall color has accelerated and it appears now that peak color is only a week or so off. Indeed, in the last week it seemed like a gear shifted and you could see the change day to day. 

Fall color fans can bet safely that next weekend will be very close to peak. Mountainsides have changed from green to mixed yellows, and the red species are showing more red each day. In my front yard I have two black gums, the reddest of the red trees, one is red, and the other is deep claret on the way to red. 

Fall Color Reflection at Big Bluff 2009

We are at 2,150 feet. Fall color dynamics vary a lot according to location. At river level it is different than it is at altitude. We change sooner presumably due to cooler temperatures. Wet places change later than dry places. This year's drought is the worst in many years. It will be interesting to see how it will play out. It is likely that we will have "leaf off" sooner, but that is speculation. My guess is that drought-stressed trees will lose their leaves in any heavy wind. 

Without question, roads along the Buffalo River corridor are the best places to see fall color.  Highways 7, 43, 21,16, and 74 can be organized into loops pretty readily. The mountainous areas offer the best vistas with big changes in contour from mountain bluffs to the hollows. Newton and Searcy Counties offer the very best fall color. 

Center Point Trailhead in 2009 Color

Every color tour should include a leg through Boxley Valley. Currently the famous Arkansas Elk Herd is at peak rut. Huge bulls with harems roam the valley at the ends of the day. For the best chances, the couple of hours after daybreak, and couple of hours before sundown are the best times to see the elk and hear the bulls bugle. 

Boxley Valley Bull Elk October 15, 2010

For the adventurous, hiking the river bed in the Upper Buffalo River area is easy now with very low river levels. This is a great way to experience the river, and pools of reflected fall color. Primitive campers will want to consider camping on a gravel bar. Nothing compares to the brilliant canopy of stars on an Ozark night. 

Fall Color 2009 on the Buffalo River

If you visit next weekend, on the 22nd and 23rd, the Ponca Elk Education Center will be putting on its annual Color Fest. This is local art show that includes demonstrations. There is a free elk photography workshop by elk photographer, Michael Dougherty. No trip to Ponca is complete without visiting the Center. In addition to its outstanding exhibits and gift shop, it is the hub for local information not only on elk, but other wildlife and the surrounding attractions. 

2010 Arkansas Elk Rut Underway

It is time to declare the 2010 elk rut officially underway. In the last few days to a week, for the first time the huge bull elk of Boxley Valley in NW Arkansas have migrated to herds of cow elk to begin the annual mating ritual. Only a few of the cow elk are now estrous, but that is enough to kick off the annual show.

Currently there are two herds of cow elk with herd bulls in Boxley Valley. For a few days now they have been centered from the mid valley area all the way down to the south end of the valley just north of the trail head to the Upper Buffalo Wilderness. Elk will move around, often migrating at night.

Visitors to the valley should check all of Boxley Valley from the Ponca Access to the south trail head before choosing where to watch and photograph the elk. Newbies often park at the very first elk they see (or have ever seen) and miss much better viewing just a short distance away. Failing to check the valley before setting on your viewing location could be the difference between seeing a bull fight or missing that rare opportunity.

If you hear elk bugling, often that means there are potential challenger elk nearby. The call and answer of a herd bull and potential challenger is the first step that might lead to a bull fight. I call this "counter-bugling", and I rely on counter-bugling to alert me to potential bull fights. Bulls preparing to fight bugle at one another frequently and loudly. The tone of voice changes from melodic to raspy as they express building rage prior to the fight. Paying attention to this change in tone will lead you to potential bull fights that might be in the next field.

Remember to be safe. Bull elk pumped up with hormones during the rut are predisposed to fighting. Invade their space and you risk becoming an antler ornament. The animals are also on private land, so fence jumping is plainly the wrong thing to do.

This annual show is only beginning and will continue to November. Peak action is over the next month or so, but bugling will continue for some time.

Tips for Enjoying the 2010 Arkansas Elk Rut

Bull Elk Are Preparing for
the 2010 Arkansas Elk Rut

The elk rut begins now in just two weeks. These tips will add to your enjoyment as you visit the Ponca elk herd in historic Boxley Valley. These tips should add to your elk viewing experience. 

• The best elk viewing is early and late in the day. Plan to visit early mornings and in the late evenings.
  
• For a few years the best elk viewing has been in the fields near the intersection of Highways 43 and 21, just south of Ponca. Begin looking for elk in these fields, but don't rule out the entire valley.
  
• Drive slowly in Boxley Valley. My recommendation is 40 mph maximum. Remember bull elk are in love during the rut, they are a bit more recless and if you speed you could hit one.
  
• Be very conscious of safety issues. Tourists gawking at elk are often not very alert. Drive slowly, and watch for pedestrians.
  
• When you stop to view elk, pull as far as possible off the road. In many places in Boxley Valley, there are wide shoulders that will allow you to pull completely off the road.
  
• Respect private property. All the farm fields in Boxley Valley are private. Do no jump fences or block farm field entrances.
  
• Remember that elk are wild animals. Both cow and bull elk can and will protect themselves and their young if they perceive you are entering their space.
  

During the peak elk viewing season, the National Park Service and the Newton County Sheriff Department enforce speed limits and trespassing laws. Tickets will be given for egregious parking violations in driveways and private lands. Let common sense be your guide. If anything seems wrong it probably is, and you could get a costly ticket.