2011 Buffalo National River Region Wildflower Season

This has been a weird last month. Very heavy snow storms topped off by the last one -- a real monster for around here. We have at least 15" of snow on the ground, and it may be more. Our county has been declared a disaster area. It will probably be at least 3-4 days before we can go anywhere.

Rest in Peace Old Friend

I am sorry to report that my signature black and dirt jeep with the generic white labels is dead. On Saturday the 5th I lost control of the old girl, did a "360", stuck it in a 4ft ditch, and slammed it into a stone bank. Pretty much trashed it. Estimated repairs are $7000, so it is off to the bone yard.

Miraculously I came out of that crash with only one bruise. Perhaps it is because I rotated the jeep clockwise as recommended by the sign -- I did stay well below the recommended 50 MPH though. By the time I popped up and out of the jeep, there were two trucks volunteering to help. As amazing as this place is, the people are still better. They got the jeep upright, positioned it off the road, and then gave me a ride home. My thanks to the Davidsons of Elk Horn Road for their help.

As hard as it seems to believe wildflower season is now less than a month off. I spent some time looking at the shooting dates of last year's photos. Wildflower season begins in the first week of March if it follows last year's patterns. If you don't live near wildflowers you can rely on the blooming date of daffodils to signal the onset of the 2011 wildflower season in the Buffalo National River region.

I am looking out the window at hundreds of birds at my feeders due to the snow cover. You know the snow cover is heavy when you see red-winged blackbirds in droves at your feeder. I don't think there are more than 15 or 20 pairs of these birds nearby around ponds and runoffs. I have them all now at the feeder, plus other from more distant places.

Harbinger of Spring, Lost Valley

The first wildflower you photograph will likely be Harbinger of Spring (go figure). These tiny flowers are a bit difficult to find, the flower head is about the size of a dime and it blends real well with the cover on the forest floor. You will have to look close to see them. As I did last year, I will post flowers and shooting dates.


A few things to remember:

• First, the wildflower season is long. To see the most species you need to get out about every week. Some species will bloom only about a week or so, take a week off and you might miss them for the season.
  
• Second, the season will be different in different places. For example, Smith Creek Preserve will lag about a week behind Lost Valley. There are even timing differences within one area. Wildflowers teach you a lot about micro-climates and niches.
  
• Third, some species are common in one place and rare in another. A good example is Dutchman's Breeches. They are rare in Lost Valley, but pretty common at Smith Creek Preserve.
  
• Fourth, there are many places to find wildflowers up and down the river. Just about every hiking trail has spots where the flowers are pretty thick. There are differences between mountain top environments, and along the river and feeder creeks. Pay attention to roadsides as well. You will find wildflower hot spots everywhere.
  
• Fifth, you can get great flower pictures with pretty ordinary equipment. Don't place limits on yourself because you lack this lens or that camera. Great photos are about composition, about light. Look for dramatic light, think in terms of shapes and lines. Look beyond the obvious, think carefully and pick your shots and angles. These habits will move your photos to another level. 

Be safe. If you hike a relatively remote place like Smith Creek Preserve, ideally do it with a friend. Always let someone know where you went. If you have the bucks consider getting a rescue beacon. We can all be seduced into believing there is no danger in these beautiful wild places. That can be a fatal mistake.

2010 Fall Color Coming on Strong Now -- Peak in One Week

In the last week, the transition to fall color has accelerated and it appears now that peak color is only a week or so off. Indeed, in the last week it seemed like a gear shifted and you could see the change day to day. 

Fall color fans can bet safely that next weekend will be very close to peak. Mountainsides have changed from green to mixed yellows, and the red species are showing more red each day. In my front yard I have two black gums, the reddest of the red trees, one is red, and the other is deep claret on the way to red. 

Fall Color Reflection at Big Bluff 2009

We are at 2,150 feet. Fall color dynamics vary a lot according to location. At river level it is different than it is at altitude. We change sooner presumably due to cooler temperatures. Wet places change later than dry places. This year's drought is the worst in many years. It will be interesting to see how it will play out. It is likely that we will have "leaf off" sooner, but that is speculation. My guess is that drought-stressed trees will lose their leaves in any heavy wind. 

Without question, roads along the Buffalo River corridor are the best places to see fall color.  Highways 7, 43, 21,16, and 74 can be organized into loops pretty readily. The mountainous areas offer the best vistas with big changes in contour from mountain bluffs to the hollows. Newton and Searcy Counties offer the very best fall color. 

Center Point Trailhead in 2009 Color

Every color tour should include a leg through Boxley Valley. Currently the famous Arkansas Elk Herd is at peak rut. Huge bulls with harems roam the valley at the ends of the day. For the best chances, the couple of hours after daybreak, and couple of hours before sundown are the best times to see the elk and hear the bulls bugle. 

Boxley Valley Bull Elk October 15, 2010

For the adventurous, hiking the river bed in the Upper Buffalo River area is easy now with very low river levels. This is a great way to experience the river, and pools of reflected fall color. Primitive campers will want to consider camping on a gravel bar. Nothing compares to the brilliant canopy of stars on an Ozark night. 

Fall Color 2009 on the Buffalo River

If you visit next weekend, on the 22nd and 23rd, the Ponca Elk Education Center will be putting on its annual Color Fest. This is local art show that includes demonstrations. There is a free elk photography workshop by elk photographer, Michael Dougherty. No trip to Ponca is complete without visiting the Center. In addition to its outstanding exhibits and gift shop, it is the hub for local information not only on elk, but other wildlife and the surrounding attractions.